fbpx

Have You Found an Animal?

Wildlife Help Starts Here

Ohio Wildlife Center is here to help.  If you have found a wild animal and need to know how to help it, please follow the questions below. You’ll have a solution in less than three minutes as you walk through these simple questions and answers. 

To reach a wildlife expert in Central Ohio:

Outside of Central Ohio? Locate an expert in your area.

No matter your situation, always use caution when approaching a wild animal.  Keep children and pets away from these situations, too.

1. Is the animal bleeding or seriously injured?

If the animal has bleeding, broken bones or another obvious injury – you can bring the animal to Ohio Wildlife Center’s Hospital during open hours.  See Options for safely containing and transporting different types of animals.

.

Follow below to Question 2.

2. Do you have uninvited wildlife in your home or business?

Sounds like you need professional help.  SCRAM! Wildlife Control is our fee-based service offering humane eviction and exclusion services. Our qualified technicians are here to help!

If you are outside of Central Ohio, please call your nearest humane society and ask if there is a humane, non-lethal company in your area that can help with your uninvited guests.

Find your animal or situation below and see common solutions.

3. What type of animal have you found?

Bird

 

Duck or Goose

 

Squirrel

 

Bat

 

Opossum

Opossum

 

Deer

 

Rabbit

 

Skunk or Raccoon

 

Reptiles/ Amphibians

 

Woodchuck

Coyote or Bobcat

Other / General Advice

A BABY BIRD fell out of the nest. What do I do?

Many people find birds that look like they need help. Some fall out of the nest too soon and do need help, but many are meant to be on the ground as young birds called fledglings and they should be left alone.

It is common for baby birds to fall out of the nest. Fortunately, their bones are still developing at this time, so the bird has less of a chance of serious injury from the fall. Birds usually fall straight down unless there have been severe winds.

  • Look directly above where the bird was found or in the immediate surrounding area for trees or bushes to locate the nest.
  • You can also watch from a distance to see if there is other bird activity, i.e. birds singing (territorial sign), chirping of other young birds begging for food, or adults flying in and out of certain trees or shrubs.
  • If the bird is a hatchling (no feathers) or nestling (start of feathers) and appears uninjured (no noticeable blood), place the bird back in its nest.
  • If you cannot reach the nest or the nest is destroyed, construct an artificial nest by attaching a well-draining container (such as a margarine tub with holes) near the original nest. Line the container with grasses.
  • If the bird is a fledgling (fully feathered, alert, hopping around), place the bird on a nearby branch or shrub. If unsure of the age, try placing the bird in the nest. If it hops back out, it’s probably a fledgling.

After placing the bird in the determined spot, watch from a respectable distance for 30-60 minutes to ensure the parents are returning to feed the bird. If the adults haven’t returned by this time, the bird(s) is likely orphaned and should be admitted to the hospital. Human scent will not cause the parent birds to abandon their young (most songbirds have a poorly developed sense of smell).

Building an Artificial Bird Nest (Bowl Nest)

  • Find a sturdy container that has drainage.  (Examples are a berry basket or a margarine tub with drain holes in the bottom.)
  • Fill the container with materials similar to what the original nest was made of. If you don’t know, use dried grass, leaves, and small twigs.  Build the base with the twigs, then line the nest with the grasses and leaves.  Compress the center with your fist to form the nest.
  • Secure the container to the tree with twine, yarn, or string.  Make sure it is stable.  Place it as close to the original nest as you can.  Try to pick a spot that is sheltered from direct sunlight and rain.
  • Put the baby in the artificial nest so that he is sitting upright with his legs tucked underneath his body.
  • Monitor from a distance for at least a couple hours (during the day) to see if mom has found the artificial nest and is caring for the baby.

Building an Artificial Cavity Nest

  • Find a sturdy container that has drainage.  One example is a milk carton.  Put drainage holes in the bottom, cut a large flap in the back for easy access, and cut a hole in the front for the mom to enter (the size of the hole will vary depending on the type of bird).
  • Fill the bottom of the container with materials similar to what the original nest was made of. If you don’t know, use dried grass, leaves, and small twigs.  Build the base with the twigs, then line the nest with the grasses and leaves.  Compress the center with your fist to form the nest.
  • Put the baby in the artificial nest so that he is sitting upright with his legs tucked underneath his body. Close up the access flap and tape it shut using duct tape or packing tape.  If the back of the container will be up against something (like the side of a house or a tree), you can skip the tape on the flap.
  • Secure the container to something that is as close to the original nest as possible.  Secure it using twine, yarn, string, or duct tape.  Make sure it is stable and as high off the ground as possible.
  • Monitor from a distance for at least a couple hours (during the day) to see if mom has found the artificial nest and is caring for the baby.

 

A child has brought a BABY BIRD home. What do I do?

If there is no sign of injury – broken limb, head tilt, visible blood – accompany the child and retrace the path to the area where the bird was collected, then locate the nest site and replace the bird as described in “A baby bird fell out of a nest” above. Remember to confirm the presence of the bird parents.

If the original site cannot be located, the bird should be brought to the Wildlife Hospital for care.

I have found a healthy-looking BIRD in my yard, but it CAN'T FLY away. What should I do?

You are probably seeing fledglings. The young fledgling birds are typically clumsy flyers when they are fresh out of the nest. They have not fully developed their flight muscles or skills and are somewhat uncoordinated.

Parent birds will continue to feed a fledgling on the ground for a couple weeks as it learns to fly, allowing it to gain more strength. Often, when people or animals try to approach grounded fledglings, the adults will mob (fly in a threatening manner) the intruder – this is normal and a good sign that the bird is being cared for. These grounded young birds are usually able to fly within a few days.

Although birds are vulnerable to predators, pets (especially outdoor cats) and children at this stage of development, this is a normal process, and it is crucial for the bird to learn to recognize these threats. Keep pets indoors or take them out on a leash when necessary to prevent pet attacks, and watch the fledgling to make sure the parents are still feeding the bird.

A BIRD just hit my WINDOW and it isn’t flying away. What should I do?

This is a very common occurrence. Please contain the bird using the directions linked below and transport the Wildlife Hospital immediately. We have learned new information when it comes to brain trauma in birds that does not show initially due to adrenaline, so getting them to us for a minimum 24 hours neurologic watch is very important.

 

I have found a DUCKLING/GOSLING without its mother.

Most waterfowl lay their eggs away from water. They are capable of laying large numbers of eggs (12-14), which they incubate for about 28 days. After hatching, the mother leads the chicks to water on foot, which may be up to a mile away. Because they often have such a long hike to reach water, it is possible for healthy individuals to get separated from the rest of the group.

  • Infants that show visible injury – broken limbs, blood, head tilt – should be brought to the hospital.
  • Healthy infants should be reunited with their parents. Only after all reuniting attempts fail should the ducklings/goslings should be brought to our hospital.

General instructions for reuniting infant waterfowl

  • Contain the infant(s) securely and transport them to the nearest water source. Look for an adult with infants of the same size and species. If they are spotted, set the container with the infant(s) nearby and move back to observe from a distance. Allow the infant(s) to call to the rest of the group. If a mother and her young approach the container and react positively to the infant’s calls, move the box away from the water, tip the container over on land and continue to observe. Remove the infant from the group if any aggression is observed.
  • Introducing on land will make it easier to recapture the infant if the reuniting attempt fails. Some adult waterfowl will drown unknown infants.
  • Proper identification of infant waterfowl will help:
    • If it is a Canada gosling: Canada geese usually accept similar-sized goslings without concern for whether it is their baby or not. The younger goslings (yellow down-covered) are coveted by adults; older feathered goslings are not as readily adopted. If the nearest water source does not have a matching family, the search may expand to any and all water sources
    • If it is a mallard: Female mallards bond to ducklings during the first few days after hatching. After this short period has passed, she and her brood will consider any new duckling an intruder, even if it is biologically related to them. If the mother duck does not recognize a duckling, she or the other infants may pick on or attempt to drown it. Approach mallard reuniting with extreme caution! The best chances of success are with chicks that have very recently hatched.
    • If it is a wood duck: Wood ducks are “called” to the water by their parent rather than being escorted to it. Though they are particularly secretive, they are fiercely loyal to their babies and readily accept young that are not their own. The babies may be found in a group near their nest, and the mother may be alone waiting at the water. The caller should check small streams and rivers in addition to ponds for her, and listen carefully for her “ooekk” call in response to the peeping of ducklings.

If reuniting is not possible, you can bring the animal(s) to our hospital. Please remember, humans are not a wild animal’s best chance for survival.  It is always better to take extra time to search for parents before bringing them to us.

I have found BABY DUCKS/GEESE that have fallen down into the sewer. How can I get them out?

Call the non-emergency number for the local fire department for assistance. Drain covers may not be removed by members of the public.

If no one from the municipality is available to remove the cover, find a long-handled net such as a pool skimmer. Makeshift nets can also be made from hangers — you can unravel a wire hanger and thread it through the edge of a pillowcase, then continue to attach to a broom or another long pole with Duct Tape.

  • There has also been some success with playing audio of a duck call to lure ducklings towards the sound. YouTube and other online sources make it easy to find these audio files.
  • DO NOT release the young one by one. Place them all into a (preferably clear) container as they are rescued. If you release them one by one, they or the mother may start walking off.
  • If the mother is still nearby, make sure she can see and hear the young during the entire rescue to keep her attention. You can use a clear Rubbermaid container or a large box without a top. Do not attempt to catch her.
  • Once all the young are gathered in the container, check that they are alert and uninjured.
  • Healthy infants should be attempted to be reunited with their parents.

General instructions for reuniting infant waterfowl

  • Contain the infant(s) securely and transport them to the nearest water source. Look for an adult with infants of the same size and species. If they are spotted, set the container with the infant(s) nearby and move back to observe from a distance. Allow the infant(s) to call to the rest of the group. If a mother and her young approach the container and react positively to the infant’s calls, move the box away from the water, tip the container over on land and continue to observe. Remove the infant from the group if any aggression is observed.
  • Introducing on land will make it easier to recapture the infant if the reuniting attempt fails. Some adult waterfowl will drown unknown infants.
  • Proper identification of infant waterfowl will help:
    • If it is a Canada gosling: Canada geese usually accept similar-sized goslings without concern for whether it is their baby or not. The younger goslings (yellow down-covered) are coveted by adults; older feathered goslings are not as readily adopted. If the nearest water source does not have a matching family, the search may expand to any and all water sources
    • If it is a mallard: Female mallards bond to ducklings during the first few days after hatching. After this short period has passed, she and her brood will consider any new duckling an intruder, even if it is biologically related to them. If the mother duck does not recognize a duckling, she or the other infants may pick on or attempt to drown it. Approach mallard reuniting with extreme caution! The best chances of success are with chicks that have very recently hatched.
    • If it is a wood duck: Wood ducks are “called” to the water by their parent rather than being escorted to it. Though they are particularly secretive, they are fiercely loyal to their babies and readily accept young that are not their own. The babies may be found in a group near their nest, and the mother may be alone waiting at the water. The caller should check small streams and rivers in addition to ponds for her, and listen carefully for her “ooekk” call in response to the peeping of ducklings.

If reuniting is not possible, you can bring the animal(s) to our hospital. Please remember, humans are not a wild animal’s best chance for survival.  It is always better to take extra time to search for parents before bringing them to us.

There is a GOOSE OR DUCK sitting on a nest in my front yard. Can I move the nest to a nearby location?

Birds and their nests (except starlings, house sparrows, and pigeons) are protected under federal law. You may not move nests or destroy eggs without first receiving permission from the Ohio Division of Natural Resources 1-800-WILDLIFE.

Most local waterfowl sit on the eggs for about one month.

  • A partial blockade may be created between the nest and the house for the nest incubation period to protect them from domestic predators or human interference.
  • The goose or duck will leave the nest to seek a water source once the eggs have hatched.

I think I have a DOMESTIC duck or goose that needs help. How can I tell?

Ohio Wildlife Center does not accept domestic ducks or geese. If you determine you do have a domestic species, you must call your local domestic pet shelter. Any duck, goose or swan that is banded (with a metal leg band or plastic neck band) is a wild species.

  • If you have purchased or acquired this animal from a previous owner, “releasing” domestic waterfowl is considered pet abandonment. These animals depend on someone providing food, shelter and veterinary care, and can’t survive on their own. Please relinquish the animal at a local domestic pet shelter.
  • If the owner may be in the neighborhood, search for someone responsible for the animal(s).
  • A mute swan without an owner is a difficult situation. These are considered invasive in the state, and efforts are underway to reduce the feral/stray population since it competes with the native Trumpeter Swan. Wildlife rehabilitators are strictly forbidden from providing medical care to feral mute swans. Very often, these animals must be euthanized per state guidelines unless a permitted owner is found. If the animal appears to be greatly suffering with a debilitating injury, consult a local veterinarian for advice on humane treatment.

A BABY SQUIRREL has fallen from its nest. What should I do?

Litters of three to five Eastern gray squirrels are born in two seasons throughout the year: February/March and July/September. Squirrels are born hairless and with eyes and ears sealed shut. Their eyes open at 28 days, and babies are weaned around three to four months.

Mother squirrels are very loyal to their infants and will usually retrieve young that have fallen from their nest site. The mother will pick the infant up in her mouth and carry it back to the nest.

General Guidelines for Reuniting Infant Squirrels

  • Quickly scan the squirrel for any signs of injury or the presence of fleas or fly eggs (look like tiny rice grains); injured or parasite-infested animals must be admitted to the Hospital. Infants often fall without sustaining any injuries.
  • If uninjured and the baby just fell out of the nest, leave the squirrel at the base of the tree and give the mother a chance to retrieve it. Make sure that all pets are kept indoors during this time.
  • If unsure of when the baby fell, place the squirrel in an open shallow box at the base of the tree. Most young squirrels will need a supplemental heat source in half of the box, even when it is warm outside. Mothers will not retrieve cold young. Heat sources for the outside of the box may be:
    • An old sock filled with dry (not instant) rice. Tie a knot at the end of a sock and microwave for one minute.
    • A zip-lock bag filled with hot water placed in a second bag to prevent leaking.
    • “Hot Hands” hand warmer wrapped in a T-shirt or cloth.
  • If weather permits, give the mother squirrel until sunset to retrieve her baby. If she does not come, bring the infant inside for the night, and if a heating pad is available, place a heating pad on the LOWEST setting under HALF of the box with a piece of fleece or T-shirt in between the squirrel and the box. DO NOT attempt to feed the squirrels any liquids. If their eyes are open, a few large chunks of fruit and unsalted nuts may be added with the squirrel(s).
  • At sunrise, attempt to reunite the squirrel one final time for 30-60 minutes. If the mother still does not come for her infant, it should be considered an orphan and be admitted to our Wildlife Hospital.

A SQUIRREL NEST has fallen or been destroyed. What should I do with the babies?

The mother squirrel’s home range may be as large as eight acres. She will have multiple nest sites available, either in tree cavities or leaf nests. A typical leaf nest is a ball of leaves and twigs one to two feet in diameter, usually placed about 20 feet high in the tree.

If a nest becomes infested with fleas or mites, soiled with feces, or destroyed by a storm, the mother will carry her infants (one at a time) to a fresh nest within her territory. This can take time, especially if the alternate nest is on the opposite end of the mother’s territory.

  • Plenty of time should be given to allow the female squirrel to locate and move her young. If the mother doesn’t immediately retrieve the baby squirrels, follow the guidelines for reuniting infant squirrels (above).
  • Please note that as well-intentioned as humans might be, we are always the poorest possible substitute for the natural parents of any wild animal. For this reason, every opportunity must be provided for the mother to find her offspring before it is brought to the hospital.

A YOUNG SQUIRREL just approached (or followed) me. What does that mean?

If a young squirrel (eyes open, fully furred and mobile) approaches, follows or solicits human (or pet) contact, bring it into our hospital as soon as possible. Young squirrels, having been orphaned for nearly 72 hours, will begin to seek non-traditional food sources, including the unsuspecting human. It is considered a critical behavior when they begin to approach or follow people. In these situations, a few large pieces of fruit or vegetables (apples, melons, carrots, and a few shelled and unsalted nuts), if convenient, can be added to the container until the squirrel can be transported to our hospital.

There is an injured ADULT SQUIRREL. What should I do?

The most common reasons for adult squirrel admission to the hospital are being hit by a car, electrocution and dog attacks.

I found a BAT on the ground NOVEMBER-MARCH

I found a bat on the ground November-March

Bats should be approached with extreme caution. They are a high-risk mammal species for transmitting rabies to other mammals, including humans. It is highly advisable to seek professional assistance with bats. You can hire our certified wildlife professionals at SCRAM! Wildlife Control to assist in the collection of a bat in your home or yard.

Safely contain the animal and bring to the hospital.

I found a BAT on the ground APRIL-NOVEMBER

Bats should be approached with extreme caution. They are a high-risk mammal species for transmitting rabies to other mammals, including humans. It is highly advisable to seek professional assistance with bats. You can hire our certified wildlife professionals at SCRAM! Wildlife Control to assist in the collection of a bat in your home or yard.

There is a BAT in my living space

Bats should be approached with extreme caution. They are a high-risk mammal species for transmitting rabies to other mammals, including humans. It is highly advisable to seek professional assistance with bats. Call your local non-emergency police or sheriff to see if your city or township has animal control staff. You can hire our certified wildlife professionals at SCRAM! Wildlife Control to assist in the collection of a bat in your home or yard.

  • If it’s flying around the room:
    • Leave the room and close the door until the bat has landed.
    • If the bat appears uninjured and no potential bites or other exposures to human or pets have occurred, and temperatures are over 50 degrees at night (between April-November), encourage the bat to leave on its own:
      • Enter the room when the bat is stationary and open an exterior door or the window (remove the screen and pull back curtains). Before leaving, turn off the lights. The bat will likely fly out of the room through the open door or window when evening arrives. Turn outside lights on to help attract bugs; that will make it more tempting for the bat to leave the house.
      • RABIES CAUTION – safety and disease information for sick/injured animals

I have a lot of BATS in my attic

Bats in Ohio are very important ecologically and are a protected species. It is illegal to kill or willfully harm any bat. Please seek professional expertise due to human health concerns and exclusion success. Contact SCRAM! Wildlife Control, a unit of Ohio Wildlife Center, to discuss professional and permanent approaches to bat exclusions. Our certified technicians will inspect the attic, document openings, and work with you to create a plan to benefit the humans and the bats.

I have found a BABY OPOSSUM; can I try to reunite it with its mother?

Leave it alone. Female opossums can have up to 13 offspring. As the babies develop and become too large for the pouch, they will begin to ride around on the mother’s back. It is very likely that one or more may fall off at any given time. As you can imagine, the mother would probably not miss one or two bodies riding around on her back. The mothers do not come back for lost babies.

If it is smaller than an average adult palm and is found alone, it should be brought to our hospital.

I see an ADULT OPOSSUM hit on the side of the road. Are there babies?

This species is a common victim of vehicle collisions. In spring and summer, most female opossums have young in their pouches. Sometimes the adult is killed or severely injured by the automobile, but the babies remain uninjured. If young are present and still alive, transport the entire (deceased) adult animal with babies to the Wildlife Hospital. We do not recommend you remove the babies from the pouch. Young bodies can be missed, and it also helps the hospital team to see the condition of the mother in order to provide the best medical care for the infants.

The animal is an ADULT DEER, COYOTE or BOBCAT

Please do not approach this animal, but instead monitor it at a safe distance. This is a dangerous animal and very difficult to help, even when injured. Please call your county’s wildlife officer to report the situation. If there is immediate public harm, please call your location’s non-emergency police or sheriff.

I think a DEER has a broken/missing leg

Deer can live in the wild with three legs. Even if it appears injured and hobbling, it has a good chance to heal, and leaving it alone is its best chance for survival. Keep an eye on it; if you see its condition worsening, call your county’s wildlife officer to report the situation.

I found a fawn (BABY DEER with white spots)

Unless there is an adult deer (no spots) dead next to the fawn, it is likely not an orphan.

  • A resting fawn, lying down, curled up, does not need help! A fawn is often seen in the same spot for several days (even immediately next to a home, deck or garage) until the mother leads it to a new location.
  • Leave it alone and keep an eye on it.
  • If a fawn is crying, bleating, covered in flies or walking into garages, it likely needs help. Our hospital can provide short-term (72-hour) care and will work to unite it with a local lactating herd. Please observe the animal’s behavior for at least three hours before taking it from the wild. It is very difficult to place babies with foster herds. If you still need help, you must leave a message on our Infoline at 614-793-9453 so we can plan for best intervention.

There’s a nest of BUNNIES in my yard. I need to mow/let my dog out/let my children use the yard. Can I move the nest?

No. Moving the nest is extremely risky to the life of the bunnies. Since the mother feeds at dawn or dusk, or basically when the yard is not in use, the nest can be protected (rather than moved) while the yard is “in use” by people, pets or lawn mowers, as long as the mother has access to her young between sundown and sunup. Once you estimate the age of the babies, you can determine how long you will need to protect the nest (it will be no more than three weeks).

Guidelines for Protecting a Cottontail Nest

  • Upside-down plastic laundry baskets with a heavy object on top of it, such as a brick or a rock, are ideal for this because they are well-ventilated and will not fall apart if they become wet.
  • If there is no laundry basket available, a box can be used. You can use a plastic milk crate or cardboard box. Cardboard boxes, however, are not durable in the rain, and extra holes need to be cut into it for ventilation, especially in warm weather.
  • Remove the protection just before sundown, and bring the dog or cat inside. Replace it every morning.
  • If removing and replacing the protection is absolutely not possible, try cutting a softball-sized hole in a laundry basket and leaving it in place. This will keep out most dogs (though probably not cats) and allows the mother rabbit to reach her babies.

How long will I have to do this? The longest anyone needs to protect a nest is three weeks. If the babies in the nest already have their eyes open, they are at least a week old.

Domestic pets:

  • Walk the dog on a leash for a short time or use a different yard.
  • Keep pet cats indoors. Allowing unleashed cats outside not only leaves them susceptible to many diseases, but also leaves them vulnerable to coyote attacks or altercations with other wild animals.

I have a nest of abandoned BUNNIES in my yard. What do I do?

First, be sure it’s truly abandoned. A wild animal will rarely abandon her young.

Young rabbits leaving the nest will be about the size of a lemon, but are totally independent. They are bright, with open eyes, and able to hop and evade capture. These young rabbits may hang around the nest for a few days before dispersing, but the mother rabbit has already left to make a new nest and produce another litter.

If a group of babies is in a nest and not mobile, check for nest abandonment by putting string in a hash pattern across the nest or lining it with flour. Only the female raises the young, and visits and feeds mainly at night. By day, she hides under bushes or lies low in tall grass to avoid detection by predators. She is rarely seen near the nest during the day. If the string is disturbed or prints appear in the flour, the mother is tending to the young.

Rabbit Nest Techniques

If the rabbits do not have ears up and are hopping around, and you follow them and  determine the mother hasn’t returned, the rabbits are considered orphaned and must be admitted to hospital.

My child just brought in BUNNIES from the back yard. What do I do with them?

Human scent is not known to cause wild animals to abandon their young over short periods of time. If uninjured, the young should be reunited with their parents. Never feed young rabbits liquids of any kind.

Return the rabbits to the original nest location. The rabbit’s nest is usually a shallow depression in the ground, about four or five inches in diameter and lined with soft grasses and the mother’s fur. They are often difficult to spot, as they are usually covered in grass and fur when the mother leaves for the day. Nests may be found anywhere suitable cover and food sources are available together, including fields, back yards, forest edges, etc.

Once the young are returned to their nest, follow the techniques to confirm that the mother is returning at night. If a group of babies is in a nest and not mobile, check for nest abandonment by putting string in a hash pattern across the nest or lining it with flour. Only the female raises the young, and visits and feeds mainly at night. By day, she hides under bushes or lies low in tall grass to avoid detection by predators. She is rarely seen near the nest during the day. If the string is disturbed or prints appear in the flour, the mother is tending to the young. If the mother does not return, the rabbits are considered orphaned and must be admitted to the hospital.

Rabbit Nest Techniques

I have been caring for a litter of orphaned BUNNIES for the last four days. They were fine yesterday, but today they have diarrhea and seem weak. What should I do?

Stop feeding the rabbits and take them to our Wildlife Hospital immediately. You must let the staff know what you’ve been feeding them for their best chance of survival. Rabbits have very sensitive gastrointestinal systems. Cow’s milk, evaporated milk, kitten milk replacement and puppy milk replacement are not suitable for wild rabbits. These foods will frequently lead to diarrhea, gastroenteritis and/or death.

If their eyes are open, you may put chemical-free (no pesticides, herbicides, etc.) dandelions, clover or grass from your yard in the box with the rabbits. Store-bought dark lettuce greens will also work.

Rabbits are prey animals and therefore very easily stressed in captivity. They should not be handled except to place them in a container for transportation. Over-handling is often fatal in this species.

There is a RACCOON or SKUNK that has been in my yard all day. I think it is rabid.

Please leave it alone. Raccoons or skunks should be approached with extreme caution. They are high-risk species for transmitting rabies to other mammals, including humans. It is highly advisable to seek professional assistance. Our professional technicians at SCRAM! Wildlife Control will come capture and transport the animal for a fee. Proceeds directly support our Wildlife Hospital. Skunks will also lift their tail and spray for protection when threatened. Please keep pets and children away from these situations.

We have BABY RACCOONS/SKUNKS in our shed/deck. How can I safely remove them?

Consider using a professional service that will not just trap and kill the animal. We recommend you seek professional services for difficult areas such as under decks or sheds. Contact our SCRAM! Wildlife Control certified technicians to inspect the problem area and work with you to find the best solution.

Raccoons or skunks should be approached with extreme caution. Although not likely in Central Ohio, they are high-risk species for transmitting rabies to other mammals, including humans. It is highly advisable to seek professional assistance. Skunks will also lift their tail and spray for protection when threatened. Please keep pets and children away from these situations.

  • The easiest solution is to consider leaving the nest undisturbed until the family naturally disperses at the end of the summer. Once a mother raccoon or skunk is finished rearing the young, you will want to verify they have left and then close off the entry point they used so that space is not used again.
  • SCRAM! Wildlife Control also does exclusion work to guarantee the animal won’t return next season. SCRAM! uses a variety of strategies, from installing perimeter and sub-ground screening at foundations and decks to repairing walls and floors that have been used for entry and exit points.

Did you know raccoons and skunks usually have more than one nesting site? You can also try making the unwanted nest site less desirable to the mother in hopes that she may relocate her family on her own. It is best to use these techniques when the young are eyes open and mobile enough to follow their mother. If the mother must physically carry her young, this process may take some time and considerable energy on her part, but is the best option for allowing her to move at her own pace.

Humane techniques to make nest sites undesirable include:

  • Adding a lot of light 24 hours a day. Strobe lighting is particularly upsetting to the animal.
  • Adding noise such as a radio tuned to a talk or metal music station playing for 24 hours a day.
  • Adding odors near the entry point, such as dirty kitty litter or rags soaked in apple cider vinegar placed inside a Tupperware container with holes.

I have been watching a group of BABY RACCOONS/SKUNKS walking around for the last few hours with no mom in sight. Can I bring them in?

Please don’t bring them in right away. It is unlikely that multiple young should be wandering around without an adult present. Adults rarely leave their offspring vulnerable to predators. It is likely that the young are orphans. However,

I have found a SNAKE in my basement. Can you come and get it out?

Yes. For a fee, we have certified technicians with our SCRAM! Wildlife Control team who will come and contain the snake.

Want to do it yourself? YES:

  •  Is it Late November-March?

Use a broom or a long-handled object to coax the snake into a container and bring it to our hospital. Secure the lid and be sure there is ventilation. Snakes are cold-blooded reptiles and can’t be released outdoors in winter.

Use a broom or a long-handled object to coax the snake into a container and release it back outdoors. Snakes do not strike unless provoked and are great to have in your yard to control pests.

I found a SNAKE in my yard/porch. I think it is poisonous and shouldn’t be here. What do I do?

Please enjoy the sighting and leave it alone. There is a very slim chance of any snake found around Columbus to be venomous (correct term, not poisonous) unless a pet got loose. No snakes native to this area are venomous. General rule of thumb is that venomous snakes native to the United States have triangular-shaped heads and elliptical pupils. Snakes are beneficial for pest control of rodents and insects and do not strike unless provoked.

I found an uninjured TURTLE crossing the road. What should I do?

Place the turtle on the other side of the road in the direction it was headed. If someone already brought the turtle home, instruct them to take it back to the exact same location and put it in the direction it was headed.

CAUTION: If you have found a snapping turtle, only handle the turtle in the back third of its body by placing one hand at the base of the tail and the other hand on the plastron (bottom of the turtle). These are very powerful turtles that can inflict serious injury with their mouths.

Turtles must not be relocated. They must be released at the same site where they are found due to site fidelity and disease transmission possibilities.

I found a very small (hatchling) TURTLE in my yard. I don’t think it should be here. Where should I put it?

Leave it alone! Bring all pets and children inside and allow the turtle to find its own path. We cannot protect every hatchling turtle from predation; they must make their own path. Turtles (even aquatic ones) don’t usually lay their eggs near water. When the turtles hatch, they must find their own way to water (if aquatic, they have a built-in GPS, so they will be able to find water if necessary) and they are perfectly capable of surviving on their own when very small.

Exception: If you find a turtle during the cold/winter months when turtles should be hibernating, you will need to pick it up carefully and put it in a secure box or container with ventilation and bring it to our hospital for evaluation. Do not feed it.

I have a native TURTLE, SNAKE, or FROG that I found and kept as a pet. Can I keep it or can you release it?

Ohio Wildlife Center never recommends that healthy wildlife be taken from the wild. See Laws Regarding Wildlife Possession.

If you have already made the choice to keep a healthy wild reptile or amphibian as a pet, there is a limit on how long it can be held in captivity before the animal is no longer considered to be a candidate for release.

If you have had the animal for under one month, it could come in for an evaluation to make sure it’s healthy and in good condition, but we recommend these animals be released where they were found. It must be returned to its original territory.

If you have had it for longer (months or years) and did not follow through with appropriate permitting, you have acted outside the law. There is no legal path for private ownership of wild caught native box turtles. There are some paths for private ownership of other reptiles and amphibians, but there are many additional steps to take.  Call 1-800-WILDLIFE to discuss options.

I have a NON-NATIVE pet turtle I bought and am looking to rehome it. Can you take it?

No, our Wildlife Hospital cannot admit a non-native animal. Please reach out to the local humane societies, reptile rescues or exotic vets who may have a list of references to rehome the turtle.

NOTE: Red-eared sliders and yellow-bellied sliders found in the wild may not be rehabilitated in the state of Ohio per state regulations. These individuals must be euthanized upon arrival regardless of severity of injury.

There is a WOODCHUCK sitting or circling in my yard all day, I think it is rabid.

Woodchucks should be approached with extreme caution. It is highly unlikely that a rodent like a woodchuck has rabies, but woodchucks sitting in vulnerable, visible locations for long periods of time, stumbling, circling or otherwise having difficulty moving may be ill or injured and should be brought to our hospital. If you are not comfortable safely containing the animal, our professional technicians at SCRAM! Wildlife Control will come capture and transport the animal for a fee. Proceeds directly support our Wildlife Hospital.

There is a chance the animal may have contracted Baylisascariasis, an internal parasite. It is not contagious, but the condition is not curable and the prognosis is poor. The disease progression leads to an inability to eat and a poor quality of life over a long period of time. Animals with this illness are also at a significant risk of walking into traffic. Capturing the animal to prevent further suffering may be a humane option.

I have been watching a group of BABY WOODCHUCKS walking around for the last few hours with no mom in sight. Can I bring them in?

It is unlikely that multiple young should be wandering around without an adult present. Adults rarely leave their offspring vulnerable to predators. It is likely that the young are orphans. Monitor the young for a four-hour period. If no adults are seen after that period, collect and bring them to our hospital.

 

The animal is a COYOTE or BOBCAT

Please do not approach this animal, but instead monitor it at a safe distance. This is a dangerous animal and very difficult to help, even when injured. Please call your county’s wildlife officer to report the situation. If there is immediate public harm, please call your location’s non-emergency police or sheriff.

A wild animal has been hit or is injured on a ROAD or HIGHWAY

A wild animal has been hit or is injured on a road or highway

This animal needs immediate attention. However, do not put yourself in direct harm to help this animal. Do not attempt to get an animal off a highway or busy street without assistance. You can either safely contain the animal and bring to our Wildlife Hospital if it is safe to do so, or call the non-emergency police number for your location.

I TRAPPED a wild animal because I want to remove it, but now I don’t know what to do.

Trapping a healthy animal is almost never a good idea. Please consider releasing the animal back at the site where it was trapped. The better approach is to address the reason the animal is bothering you. The problem doesn’t end when you trap one animal. Another will come. We recommend you contact our certified, professional technicians at SCRAM! Wildlife Control, who will work with you to identify points of entry, ensure no babies are left behind and permanently exclude future animals. All proceeds from SCRAM! support our hospital.

Did you know Ohio state law regulations deem it illegal to relocate any animal with a high potential risk for rabies (skunk, raccoon, coyote, fox, bat), and also beavers and opossums? All healthy trapped animals of these species must be released where they were captured within 24 hours, or they must be euthanized, according to the law.

Did you also know it is illegal to “relocate” any animal, regardless of species, by dumping it in a Metro Park, State Park or any other public land without permission? Relocation is also very BAD for the animal:

  • Relocated animals have a very poor chance of survival in new surroundings. Moving animals is subjecting the animal to a habitat completely foreign to it. The relocated animal not only has to defend itself against resident animals that know the territory, it must learn to forage in a completely new environment. The stress placed upon the relocated animal can hasten its death.
  • Wild animals typically have more than one den site or nest, so if access is removed from the one causing an issue on their property, the animal will move on to a new location. Encouraging an animal to make a new choice in a habitat that it is used to is significantly better than removing it completely.

I TRAPPED, killed or relocated an adult wild animal, but now I found babies.

Unfortunately, these babies are now considered “nuisance” progeny by state law in Ohio and must be euthanized. Specifically, young animals that have been orphaned or abandoned due to a purposeful action by a Commercial Nuisance Wild Animal Control Operator or a property owner cannot be rehabilitated. Call 1-800-WILDLIFE with any questions.

  • If a pest control company was involved with eliminating the adult, alert the company involved to return to complete their job.
  • Contact our certified professionals at SCRAM! Wildlife Control to help you with animals making noise in your attic or walls before you remove the parent. When mother animals are not permitted to move their young themselves, babies may become lost in areas inaccessible to humans, causing significant cost to remove at a later point.
  • If the parent has already been removed, humane euthanasia of the young is preferable to prolonged starvation or the odor produced by inaccessible carcasses.

Signs of Illness or Injury

Birds

  • Blood
  • One wing drooping
  • Obvious fracture
  • Favoring one foot
  • One pupil larger than the other
  • Strange posture (leaning, head tilt, on back, on breast)
  • Inactive, allows close human approach
  • Covered by flies and/or maggots

Juvenile or Adult Mammals

  • Blood
  • Fractured limbs
  • Strange posture (lying on stomach or back, circling, head shaking)
  • Seizures
  • Dragging rear limbs, limping
  • Inactive, allows close human approach
  • Covered by flies and/or maggots

Infants (All Species)

  • Blood
  • Fractured limbs
  • Bruising
  • Cuts or punctures
  • Cold to the touch
  • Covered by flies and/or maggots

After Hours Advice

If you encounter a sick, injured or orphaned animal when our hospital is closed, provide temporary shelter in a quiet place away from children and pets. For older animals, keep contained in a dog crate, cat carrier or ventilated box. For infant animals, keep the patient warm and dry using a lidded box (such as a shoe box) with a cloth or towel on the bottom. A heating pad placed externally underneath the box (set on low) or a rice or birdseed bag (a sock filled with dry rice/seed, tie knot at end of sock and microwave for ~1 min) may be used to help keep the animal warm. If it’s a juvenile or older adult that is able to sit up and move around, you can provide a small amount of water (peanut butter jar lid).

Unless specifically advised to do so by Ohio Wildlife Center staff or a licensed wildlife rehabilitator, please DO NOT FEED THE ANIMAL. Many wild animals have very sensitive stomachs and require very special diets. Feeding an animal improper foods can lead to diarrhea, gastroenteritis and/or death.

Unwanted Wildlife in Your Home or Business?

If you have an issue with a wild animal on your premises, under your porch/deck, or in your attic or home that cannot be resolved, please contact SCRAM! Wildlife Control certified technicians at 614-763-0696, or through an online request form. SCRAM! is a service of Ohio Wildlife Center that offers 100% NON-LETHAL solutions to human-wildlife conflicts in the home or business. All proceeds from SCRAM! services support Ohio Wildlife Center’s non-profit wildlife rehabilitation and conservation education efforts.

Top